Exploring the Rias of northwest Spain

 

We sailed from the Azores to Galicia, a province in northwest Spain. Our plan was to spend some time exploring the Rias Baixas region of Galicia--the protected coves and harbors that form the jagged coastline.

Heading ashore for the first time after dropping anchor in Baiona

Paella for our celebratory arrival meal

Popping the champagne on arrival in Baiona--transatlantic circuit complete!

Baiona

We started in Baiona, eating our fill of Galician seafood, walking around the 14th century castle, and relaxing at the small beach in town. Freja got her ears pierced. We started our fourth year of homeschooling, 5th grade for Matilda and 7th grade for Freja. Our curriculum is quite a bit more structured than we've used in the past, partly because the kids are getting older so their educational needs are changing, partly for ease of lesson-planning for me, partly because they have more stamina, and partly because Freja is working on math concepts that I would need to re-learn in order to teach her (pre-algebra!). Starlink is our new favorite crew member, allowing the kids to take online classes with peers and Freja takes two piano lessons a week.

Matilda taking advantage of a sunny day to do her schoolwork on the bow.

Helping Hans with some boatwork--preparing the flagpole for fresh varnish.

Tapas in the historic part of Baiona

Looking west from the fort to Baiona

A Illa de Arousa

Our exploration of the Rias started at an island called A Illa de Arousa, north of Vigo and in the Ria Arousa. I had marked numerous anchorages in google maps, but we ended up spending the majority of our time circumnavigating the small island. Most of the island is a protected nature reserve, criscrossed with walking trails and edged with small sandy beaches and massive granite boulders. The tide was about 3 meters and we were able to sneak into a small anchorage where we were surrounded by boulders at low tide. One a particularly sunny and warm day, we had both hammocks out, the paddleboard in the water, and the trapeze swinging off the side of the boat--maximum relaxation! Some bad weather moved in--lows moving off the north Atlantic were definitely showing indications that we were getting into fall weather--and we anchored off the town on the north side for a few nights.

Hans met the group of fishermen who are restoring this beauty when they're not fishing. It is over 100 years, double-masted, and Hans said gorgeous inside. They've already restored one boat and they plan on getting this ready for charter trips.

More paella, why not?

This hillside park reminded me of the west coast of Sweden--boulders, pine trees, and some small play equipment for kids.

razor clams! The restaurant's owner told us that the best razor clams are harvested by hand. These were harvested just off the beach.

Sorting out sea glass finds.

Cangas

We moved to a small marina in Cangas, across the river from Vigo, to stay for a couple weeks while Hans went back to the States for work. Cangas didn't look very exciting from the waterfront. The harbor was lined with concrete apartment blocks, a parking lot, and a ferry terminal. But around the corner there is a park with a massive playground and gym equipment. The beach is long with a boardwalk, perfect for morning walks. There is a produce market, butcher, bakery, and grocery store all less than 5 minutes from the marina. And the cafe culture is alive and well. In the mornings, the retired people of Cangas would converge at a cafe near the marina. It was like an informal retirement home--some had newspapers, others played cards, most drank coffee and laughed and talked from table to table. At a certain point, the women would take their collapsible shopping carts and leave to buy food for lunch. It was such a healthy, community-centered scene.

A foggy afternoon at the beach.

The contemporary art museum in Vigo. We love visiting modern art museums. Some pieces grab you, others have you scratching your head.

Riding the ferry over to Vigo.

I took advantage of the sunny, dry weather to re-varnish all the interior hatch frames.

Oops, we ran our fresh-water pump dry. Thanks Freja for contorting yourself into this tight space to bleed the pump.

Facetiming with Pappa.

All stores are closed on Sundays, except a couple bakeries. Waiting in line to get a baguette.

Reconstruction of a village from 3rd century Galicia.

Riding a covered escalator up the hill in Vigo.

Matilda, being Matilda, in Vigo.

Back in Baiona

Unfortunately, the marina was waked by the ferries to Vigo every 30 minutes or so during the day, so after a couple weeks I decided to move PW back to Baiona. The weather was gorgeous and we enjoyed our last week without Hans by doing more cockpit relaxation, beach time, and walks around the castle. With the unseasonably warm early October weather, the anchorage got rowdy on the weekend with lots of local boats anchored out and enjoying the sunshine. Matilda made friends with some kids from Vigo and the parents took them all tubing and treated her to ice cream.

We rented bikes on afternoon and biked along the coast south of Baiona.

Lunch break!

The kids did great, especially considering they haven't ridden bikes for over a year.

The  most scenic oceanfront walk I've ever been on.

We toured a replica of one of Columbus's ships, the Pinta. The Pinta returned to Baiona in 1494 (ish?) to report landfall on ... the Bahamas? Dominican Republic?

Matilda tubing with her new friends.

Hans returned and we promptly took advantage of the big tides and dried out at the nearby beach. The bottom of PW was filthy, especially the starboard side which was south-facing for over six weeks in Ponta Delgada. We used up all of our water and most of our battery bank power-washing the bottom. But it was extremely effective and barely took off any bottom paint. A couple early morning beach walkers stopped by to take pictures and ask questions--it's not often you see a big sailboat dried out on a beach!

We moved the boat back up to Cangas where we could leave it securely for a week--we were going on vacation! We rented a small RV for a week to explore the interior of northern Spain. Pack up your stuff and trade your flippers for hiking boots, it's time to head to the mountains!