Motoring thorugh the Dutch canals

 

When we decided to traverse a large portion of the Netherlands via the inland canals, the Standing Mast Route, we honestly had no idea what we were doing. Of course, we know how to handle the boat under power, how to dock, how to wait for opening bridges, and how to go through locks, but we had zero reference sources for the route, correct VHF channels, where to dock, etc. etc. Transiting the canals was a last minute decision for us, whereas a lot of people spend months, if not years, preparing for the trip. I love planning. I love lists, I love researching new destinations, I love guidebooks. (Hans might remember an epic fight we had on the steps of a cathedral in Florence, Italy back in 2008 when I was panicking because we were visiting a famous, historic city without a guidebook and I was certain we were missing all the “must-see” sights. As a teenager, I was always the self-appointed tour guide whenever we were in a new place. Honestly, the way to my heart is to let me be in charge of a self-guided walking tour. I even considered being a tour guide in Philadelphia until I saw how atrociously little they earned.)

Delfzijl to Groningen

Segue aside, we docked in Delfzijl with no idea which canal to take to get us to Amsterdam. But, as is always the way with boaters, people were more than happy to help us out. I noticed that the boater who helped us dock hailed from Makkum, our final destination on our canal tour. I quickly asked him to give us some tips and he came over to Positive Waves and talked Hans through the route on our GPS, adding crucial waypoints along the way. We set off the next morning for Groningen, a university town about 30 nautical miles away. Our first day on the canals was very picturesque, and also very stinky. Cows, I’m talking to you! At times the canals we were motoring on were higher than the land surrounding us; it was bizarre. At one point we came to a sort of four-way water intersection; I gladly gave way to the commercial tugs and barges that were on the intersecting canal. We arrived at the first bridge in Groningen just after 4 in the afternoon. It was closed, with two red lights, signifying really closed.

Not a road sign, a canal sign!

An offshoot canal off the main route.

We had no idea when the bridge would open again and no one to ask, so we tied up alongside an industrial pier to wait. Another sailboat, s/v Synergy, rafted alongside us and we had a great time talking with them and learning more about the canal system. Their 12 year old daughter was onboard and she quickly hopped onto our boat for some kid time. We looked at charts with the crew of Synergy and they explained the lights and the operating hours. Two reds = closed. One red = available to open. One red + one green = opening in progress. One green = GO! Most bridges and locks have their first opening at 9 in the morning and are available to open until 12, close from 12-13h for lunch, are available again to open from 13-16h, closed for rush hour from 16h-18h, and then usually are available again from 18h-20h.

An iconic windmill along the main canal route.

There were plenty of classic Dutch fishing boats out cruising for the summer holiday.

Sure enough, at 6pm the bridge gave us both red and green lights and we motored through and found a spot on the city wall to tie up. Most towns along the Standing Mast Route have tie-up points along the main canal for pleasure boats. Some may have electric; most don’t have water but there is usually a temporary spot on the wall next to a spigot where you can tie up to fill your tanks. Some towns have automated machines where you can pay the harbor fee; in most towns the harbor master came by after the last bridge or lock opening to collect the fee. Almost all towns had a bath house, similar to a campground, for showers and toilets. On average, each town charged between 25 and 35 euros a night.

This lifting bridge was like an optical illusion.

We tied up and the kids and I immediately jumped off the boat to explore our immediate surroundings while Hans waited for the harbor master. He met up with us about 30 minutes later and we walked around the town. We wandered down the very busy restaurant street where every storefront was a restaurant with outdoor seating. Covid, what covid? Delta variant? Never heard of it. We kept on walking and found a massive modern building that had no right angles and was open to the public. Inside we found the main public library, a movie theater, a restaurant, and an amazing roof deck with 360 degree views. After taking in the views, we walked back toward PW and stopped for dinner at a quiet cafe right by the water. The food was good but the wine pours were frugal.

Groningen at 8AM.

Matilda showing her strength at an exercise area built for adults. She is deceptively strong and made it around the obstacle course without letting her feet touch the ground. Other kids watched her and tried, but none made it all the way around (except Freja. You need a lot of upper body strength to be a boat kid!).

Taking in the sights of a very old town from the roof of a brand new building that houses the city's library, a movie theater, and rotating cultural exhibitions.

Looking down from the top of the elevator system in the public building.

A morning canal tour of Groningen

The next morning we jumped on the 9AM convoy to go through the city. What an experience! It took nearly two hours to go through the entire city, along canals that seemed too small for our big, ocean-going sailboat. Matilda waved, people waved back, bridges opened (some more slowly than others), we had no clear idea where we were going, we just went with the group. Kind of like when you get off an airplane and you just go with the flow to customs then baggage claim. The canal was lined with old barges and classic old sailing/fishing boats. We motored past cafes, parks, fancy homes, shops, and museums. We even motored past a daycare and all the kids ran to the windows and waved.

This is what happens when we leave the kids alone all day while we motor through the canals!

Dokkum

Our destination for the day was Dokkum and, while it was a short distance in terms of mileage, it took twice our average speed to get there because of waiting for bridges to open and going through locks. Motoring PW through the canals was challenging, especially when the wind picked up. PW is 44’ long, 10 tons in weight, and doesn’t have a bow thruster. When we turn the wheel to starboard, the bow doesn’t immediately respond. Add wind, and sometimes it doesn’t respond at all. Over the course of a week in the canals, we (Hans) became very adept at keeping the boat in the center of the canal while waiting for a bridge to open and using spring lines and the engine to move the bow off a dock in wind. I continued to practice driving the boat under power, but it was very windy every day (around 20 knots of wind most days) and after I etched a few scratches on the starboard aft quarter in a lock I decided there will probably be a better time and place to practice my boat handling skills.

A few of the bridges had a fee.
The bridge tender lowered a wooden clog and we deposited the fee in the clog.

We arrived in Dokkum in the evening and all the spots along the wall were taken. We found one of the biggest boats that also had all of its fenders out (signaling that they were OK with another boat rafting alongside) and we tied up for the night. The next morning it was blowing over 25 knots so we decided to stay put. The boat we were rafted with encouraged us to leave their boat and tie alongside the wall before the new convoy of boats arrived at 11am. (Not official, but generally the pattern of boat movement in the summer months.) I wasn’t too excited about moving because of the tight spot and the wind, but direct access to shore was also appealing so we came up with a plan, used lots of lines and help from other boaters, and got ourselves backed off and tied up directly underneath the historic windmill. We spent the day exploring the town which was indeed beautiful but also very touristy. In the evening a couple came over from another boat for drinks and our kids went over to their boat to hang out with their 14yo daughter. Our kids are learning how to communicate when language isn’t the first option!

Leeuwarden

Carrying on to Leeuwarden, a bigger town with a beautiful park and central shopping/restaurant street/canal. We spent two nights and one day there; had our new dinghy delivered (yay!!), and reunited with the crew of Synergy (the boat we met in Groningen) for drinks and a 10PM viewing of a very bizarre modern art film at the museum next to where we were docked. With hundreds of small boats traveling along the canals in summer months, the canals in the towns become like floating campgrounds. You see some of the same people, most people are grilling and eating outside, kids play next to the boats, and everyone is looking for the showers, somewhere to fill up on water, and somewhere to empty their holding tanks. The only thing missing is campfires.

A dinghy tour through the city canals.

Matilda got her ears pierced! In true cruising fashion (meaning: we're usually all together, all the time), the whole family went with her.

A beautiful restoration of a classic Dutch farmhouse.
Steeply pitched roofs and the barn is attached to the house.

Makkum

Onward the next day, my birthday! Our goal was Makkum, which we hoped would be a good staging point to sail to Amsterdam. Another day of motoring in strong winds, past cow fields, small towns, and gorgeous gardens. We went through a big lock in Harlingen and arrived in Makkum in the early evening. We tried to dock near the town, but the berths at the city docks were too narrow for PW and we literally got stuck in between the pilings. I guess PW’s hips are a little large! We tried in a different spot with the same result so we motored back out to the big resort marina and snagged the last available spot. 

Very very rainy.

Entering the lock in Harlingen.

The lock is huge and the lock tenders fit as many boats as possible.
I've never seen locks three boats deep, but it works!

Enjoying the sunset after my birthday dinner. It was cold!

The marina was part of a bigger camping resort and had all kinds of activities, including bumper cars.

IJsselmeer to Amsterdam

We were up bright and early the next morning and had a beautiful sail (sail!) down the IJsselmeer, through the lock and down the Markermeer to Amsterdam. We had plans to meet our friends from Philadelphia, Hester and Ian, and their kids, Mila and Boris. Hester and I spent many, many days together when our kids were babies and toddlers. Like the best friendships, we just clicked right away and since then have always had a great time together. Upon arrival in Amsterdam, we had to wait until 6pm for the northern bridge and lock to open, then we were out of the Markermeer and into the main Amsterdam canal. Hester and Ian (and friends and family!) were waiting for us at a waterfront restaurant so we motored as close as we could, waved and cheered and took pictures and video, then quickly docked at Amsterdam Marina. As soon as the lines were tied, we met up with our welcoming committee, talked non-stop as expected after 4 years apart, and started our Amsterdam tour!